This step is easy, all you need it a small pan (photo#1)to boil some water in. Somewhere around a 1 quart measure is just fine. Scrounge around and come up with the following: 1 ea. Tomy SG+ stock rear axle
1 ea. .050" o.d. (or you can just use a stock Tyco front axle) drill blank
1 pc of 3/32" o.d. brass tubing -- cut to a length of . 730". Be precise in this measurement, it does matter.
Some water... hey, it doesn't rain much in Florida :)
Photo #1
Wedge the piece of tubing in to the front top of the motor box. Push it all the way forward and get it flush with the top of the chassis (see photo#2 ). Photo #2
Insert the axles in the appropriate holes. These will keep the holes from closing up while boiling the chassis. The increase in the rear axle size over stock gets your rear axle surfaces a head start on getting broken in :) Your chassis should look like this (see photo#3 ). Boil the chassis for 20 minutes, allow to cool naturally in the pan after done. Remove the chassis and dry all parts. A light coating of oil on your axles will save them from rust until you need them for next time. Save your three "tools"... you'll want too hang on to them for the next chassis.
These are the first basic step required to "blueprint" a P2.
Photo #3
Coming Soon.......
Each racer has his own opinion or preference when it comes to what brush they like to run. Silver and Copper both have there good points. Silver is softer, a nice conductor of electricity, and breaks in quick. It actually somewhat "plates" the commutator with a coating of silver. It's drawbacks are they wear out quick and tend to collect brush particles between the commutator segments. After a while it can short out the arm or the motor will slow down, arcing and you get burnt spots. During a race where you have to run a semi to get to the main you might have to do a brush spring adjustment or the car will die out on you before the finish. Copper on the other hand last a lot longer but they take more run time to break in than silver. Commutator wear is less with not a whole lot of difference in conductibility than the silver brush. Going into a race with freshly seated and broken in brushes pretty much guarantees that you will be good to go, even running a consi and semi to get to the main. I have tried the "salt and Pepper" setup and don't really see the difference over just copper. I go with the copper brushes myself. They last longer, less prone to chipping, and the commutator stays cleaner too.
I have been schooled by the Team Wizzard dudes that on a two position front end chassis you would want to use the back hole/position if you are racing on a short, twisty track. What I mean is on a small track with a lot of turns you want a short car. It can get around those tight corners easier. From my 1/24 scale slot car experience let me say it another way for you... You have a long car and a short car. The short car is quick but a handful to drive where the long car is more forgiving and smoother to drive. My best advice to you is to build two equal cars and put one front end long and one short. Next time you are on the track run them both, same lane of course, and feel the difference in the handling. I do just that myself. Note that there is a difference in pickup shoe alignment so check your shoe contact!
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